Saturday, February 25, 2012

Setsubun

Setsubun is a Shinto festival celebrated on February 3rd to usher in Spring. Before I go into the details of Setsubun I want to take sometime to give a general overview of Shinto as I did not understand this religion myself before coming to Japan.
Shinto was born out of the need to explain death and fertility, to organize livelihood and plan group activities. It is a religion born of observing the "signs of the times", and of course for all those unexplained events we have a pantheon of deities that arise from nature and deceased clan members. One unique characteristic of Shinto is no idols, "gods" are not something the human mind can perceive and so to try to make an image of one is just foolish, they do have Koma-Inu though, guardian dogs, if you've seen pictures from the shrines you may have noticed one always has it's mouth open, the "ah" sound of the beginning of the Japanese syllabary, and one with it's mouth closed, the "n" sound of the end of the Japanese syllabary, this represents the beginning and the end. When you go to a Shinto Shrine, which is a weekly ritual for devote believers, though many only go on the big holidays, you first bow when entering the gate to show respect and then proceed to the water basin where you scoop water out and wash your hands and drink some, from your hand not the ladle, to purify your hands and mouth; the "purifiers" in Shinto are salt, water, and paper. After purifying yourself you walk up the steps to the front of the shrine where you bow, clap, bow, clap twice, and bow again, some shrines also have a bell that you can ring, this is done after the bowing and clapping. All this is done to get the attention of the Shinto deity who resides at a given shrine. All shrines have at least one deity present, Suwa shrine in Nagasaki has 3, one clan, Suwa clan, two nature, fire, ocean/sea. You then offer your prayer/petition silently. You can also buy special paper and write it down and tie it to this rack that is off to the side. Money can be thrown in the box at the front and is even set at the feet of the Koma-Inu, usually big request garner more money, but there is no hard rule here, it's just this idea that if you really want something you want the god(s) to look favorably on you. Then you leave, you can buy charms that help provide good this and that and for a small fee the priests will bless anything you want them to for protection. These charms wear out after a year or so too, so there's always a high volume of sales during big holidays, usually on New Year's, it's like Christmas or Easter in a Christian Church for a Shinto Shrine in terms of attendance. At it's most basic level Shinto is about purification and good fortune.
That said Setsubun is a festival to start Spring by pushing out bad luck and bringing in good luck. This was once the New Year's Eve when Japan worked on a Lunar calendar before the rise of western influence. This is cultivation of luck is achieved at Setsubun by Mamemaki, or bean throwing. Dried soy beans are tossed either out the door or at a family member wearing an Oni mask (Oni are like ogres, while sometimes translated as "demon", they are not "spirit beings" like western demons, but rather monsters), while chanting Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi, "oni out, good luck in". This is rarely practiced in homes anymore but is done at the shrines as you can see in this video:
This was a smaller shrine that I attended because they had more traditional events than Suwa Shrine. One of which was serving Zenzai, a sweet bean soup. It actually tastes a lot like hot cocoa. I was also able to witness some entertainment, fan dances and singing.

It was interesting to see people gathered around a modest bonfire at the shrine. They seemed to be throwing things from New Year's into the fire, my guess would be charms that were temporary like the Kadomatsu. For dinner that night I was served an uncut sushi roll and was told I should face the "lucky" direction for this year when eating it, I think it was north-north-west this year? Anyway, my host mother photographed it for me.
Other than that it was a normal night. Many festivals are small events that may no even be celebrated at the homes, but the shrines and temples keep most of these alive and are actually a source of income for those wishing to see or participate in parts of Japan's cultural history.
I'll leave you with a few other photos I took while at the small shrine that night.
 These two photos are from a very small shrine I found looking for the one I went to

 The stand there was selling lucky food like "Big Luck Strawberry Mochi"

 The first here was smaller, but people were gathered around it throwing things in and trying to stay warm since it was near freezing outside that night.
Like all Shinto Festivals it is often a time to go before the gods and offer up prayers

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Lantern Festival

So, for the first two weeks of the Chinese New Year Nagasaki has a Lantern Festival that is more a cultural heritage celebration of Chinese influence than a coincidence with Chinese New Year. It also has nothing to do with the Lantern Festival for Chinese New Year. The festival is completely unique to Nagasaki and apparently generates a lot of tourism. It was funny explaining to visiting people that I live here and was not just visiting for the festival. Like most things in this part of the world it stems from tradition of removing bad things and ushering in good things, but as I said it is just a really beautiful time to visit (especially at night) and see all the lanterns. So this update will be largely photos with some videos.
 Lanterns are all over town!


 And of course the epicenter of it all is China Town


This is the park next to China Town where the events took place. Do you want to see inside?

 This is the main area where performances take place

 It's the year of the Dragon, you are going to be seeing a lot of these

 You could sit on this, I didn't, but you were permitted to
Here's a short video so you can see this think a little better

 






 This was some kind of Buddhist altar with pig heads, I'm not sure why as Buddhists are not permitted to eat meat in most sects.
Like I said before though, the real treat was at night:








Of course it wouldn't be a festival if there were not many performances to entertain. Here are a few of the more culturally relevant ones, including a few variants of the Lion dance which, in Japan, is unique to Nagasaki and this festival.
Here is the Dragon Dance performed by children:

Taiko drum performance:
A lion dance, not the true one:
Children's Lion Dance:

Lion Dance:

This was the only streamer explosion there was during the performance and I just happened to be taking a picture at the exact moment it burst, timing couldn't have been better.
We also watched the Emperor's Parade, mostly because one of your classmates (Lucy) was in it, she's the non-Japanese girl holding the lantern at the beginning of of the videos (in the first video she's all you see of the parade), I've included a picture so she's easier to pick out.
Short Video with Lucy:
Long Video of the Performance at Meganebashi:

Since it was raining the last day many people have on coats, here are some pictures from the day before of the Parade and some of the things that did not come to the bridge performance.










The other thing that was at the Lantern Festival were large 24 meter lanterns for the 12 Chinese Zodiac... except the snake, which I discovered after looking for it for nearly two hours.
Year of the Snake? This is all you get.
 This is the Ox, this is the first one I saw.
 Dragon
 Ram or Sheep
 Rabbit
 Pig
 Rat
 Tiger
 Rooster
 Monkey
 Dog
Horse

When I come back to Nagasaki for this festival in years to come I plan to go out more at night, maybe I'll even be able to complete my Zodiac lantern collection (if they ever build a big snake lantern). I'll close this entry with some random lanterns that I really liked during the festival.



 These on the water looked so much better at night, if it wasn't pouring rain I would have gone back out to get photos of these two displays after dark.

These fish were running all along the river display near Meganebashi (see earlier blog entry).
Well I hope you enjoyed the small taste, pictures don't really do it justice though, if you really want to see something great plan a trip out to Nagasaki at the end of next January.